Details of our expenses: It was a beautiful, intimate wedding, just like we wanted, with all of the most important people in our lives. The decision of where to go for our honeymoon was easy. What better way to celebrate our love than surrounded by all this incredible nature?
Plus, since we were beginning our two-week trip on December 17, only a couple of days before the summer solstice, the days were super long, especially in such a southern latitude. We had the luxury of 17 hours of daylight — practically like squeezing in an extra week!
After finally celebrating our wedding with friends and family, we had taken the overnight flight from JFK to Santiago, and then to Balmaceda BBAwhere we picked up the 4x4 we had reserved for our adventure Traeger Rent a Car www.
We were on our own with nothing more to Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating than explore some of the most incredible places on the planet.
All around us there were mountains, forests, rivers and incredible landscapes that seemed to have no end; it was definitely an excellent replacement for the skyscrapers, traffic, and smog. We made our way Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating the airport to the Carretera Austral and turned south to begin our journey to Puerto Bertrand.
There were so many places that tempted us along the route, but our reservations were waiting further south. After a short orientation in the clubhouse, she left us solo in our cabana, with an awesome The staff had placed vases of fresh wildflowers all around the cabin and fire in the stove was warm and inviting.
It was an awesome lazy morning! We spoiled ourselves gazing out the huge windows at the panoramic views of Patagonia and only getting up to put another log in the wood-stove and answer the door when the staff brought over a delicious homemade breakfast. Finally, we made our way over to the clubhouse to eat lunch and thank Paula for such awesome service and hospitality. We left around We still had a bit of time so we dropped our stuff at the Patagonia Baker Lodge www.
Andy had told me about the Baker River several times, but I had never imagined water so beautiful, so turquoise, so powerful and pure. We geared up, listened to a brief safety speech, and hit the water! Afterwards, we went to meet with Hector Soto, hectorbertrand yahoo. Ride through the Valley Soler to a gaucho refuge Unlike the previous day, this morning we woke up really, really early, had a hearty breakfast and checked our backpacks one last time making sure we had everything we would need for two nights in the back country.
We left our car and the rest of our things at the lodge and one of their staff dropped us off at the docks in town, where we were meeting Hector.
I was SO excited — I had wanted to see the ice fields up close for years! Once I had watched a documentary that had shown aerial views of the ice fields and from above, there were dozens of glaciers descending from the ice mass into the fjords and lakes in the valleys below.
And then, ever since Andy had worked on a project about the ice fields, it had been on our mutual list to hike on the ice fields together. So, the idea of this tour was to visit the Nef Glacier, on the edge of the Northern Ice Field, and to get there, we would cross lakes, mountains and valleys; first by boat and then, on horseback. What an incredible way to start our married lives! Hector was waiting for us at the docks and within a hectic half an hour we were strapped in our life jackets and settled in the boat, amidst several boxes of supplies for our trip.
It took about an hour and a half to cross the transparent waters of Bertrand Lake before rounding a point and entering Plomo Lake. Finally, we reached the head of the Soler Valley, our destination for disembarking. We offloaded our gear in an old wheelbarrow and headed off into the bushes and reeds in route to an old farmhouse where a gaucho was waiting for us with our horses.
We crossed most of them and with Hector and Lucho as coaches; I really improved my riding skills. At the end of the valley, we entered the forest and soon arrived at the Palomar camp, where we set up tents for the night. There was an old gaucho outpost at the camp where we could gather around a rustic cook stove and share hours of yerba mate listening to Hector serenade the night skies with rounds and rounds of gaucho ballads Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating had been pretty psyched when he had told us he had bought his guitar.
After an incredible dinner, we settled into our sleeping bags and we both fell right to sleep. Return to Puerto Bertrand and visit to stormy "Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating" After another great breakfast, we mounted our horses and begin the journey back to Puerto Bertrand. We arrived in Bertrand around But not just yet; at that very early morning hour it was C-O-L-D and I was glad to sit by the fire in Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating shelter and start the day with several rounds of mate.
After a bit, Hector and Lucho broke out the supplies for a delicious breakfast with homemade bread, scrambled eggs, salami, cheese and calafate jam. Then we saddled up the horses for a brief 1 hour ride that took us through the forest to the edge of the moraine.
We left the horses at the edge to graze and continued on foot, carrying our backpacks, crampons and, of course, my beloved camera. We walked an hour or more; first, through a swampy Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating and then, up steep moraine to a plateau.
We stopped for a quick break and Hector reached down with one hand to brush away the pebbles and reveal a grainy, dirty slush.
As we moved on, the pebbles and sand disappeared and the surface began to get slippery. It was time to put on the crampons and adjust to our new pace with crampons you have to walk with your legs a little wider apart and take firm steps to bury the metal spikes in the ice. We walked single file over the totally irregular surface, full of mounds, cracks, small streams and enormous grietas, which are deep holes that can reach all the way to the base of the glacier.
Just as promised, the weather had turned sunny and hot and it was the perfect contrast with the ice. We took turns climbing ice walls with the ice axes and took a million pictures before heading back. When we reached the edge of the ice, we took a break for mate and a snack. I could have stayed there forever, but Andy wanted to get some fly-fishing in the afternoon, so we began the walk down to the horses and the return to camp. In the afternoon I slept in my hammock while Andy went off to fish with Hector, and Don Lucho started working on dinner, a lamb asado that was delicious.
It was full of energy and life and it was so inspiring to realize that its beautiful clear waters were joining with the turbid waters of the very glacier we had been walking on just a day earlier!
We sat on the rocks overlooking the rivers for a couple of hours watching the river and the changing Patagonia light. It was less than an hour from Bertrand, so we arrived with plenty of time to walk around and check out Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating town. Such an awesome place! We spent an hour exploring the Melero and buying some supplies for our next adventure at Mount San Lorenzo.
Then we went over to the Banco Estado www. In the afternoon we visited the Tamango National Reserve, one of the best places in the region to see Huemul, the southernmost deer species in the world, and unfortunately, an animal in danger of extinction. We had last seen huemul a year earlier, when hiking in Cerro Huemul, near Coyhaique and we thought it would be pretty romantic to hike in Tamango and try our luck as a married couple.
Tamango is only 6 km from Cochrane and on way, there are several great cabins; like Cabanas Brellenthin turismobrellenthin gmail. At the entrance to the Reserve a bit further down the same roadwe paid our fees and talked awhile with the administrator, Hernan Velasquez, who cares for this site along with two other Conaf rangers.
He recommended that we travel the Cochrane River via boat to the Lake and hike back the 11 km to the entrance. It is a beautiful river and the trip was super relaxed, with only one whitewater section Las Correntadas which looked like it would be fun in kayak.
In our wooden boat it seemed like it could be a bit precarious, so we got out and walked while Cesar navigated the rapids and then he stopped below so we. We walked slowly through the forest, just in case, and sure enough, Andy spotted a huemul. The Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating ate quietly and we stopped while I got out my camera and set to work.
It was really awesome and I used my entire 16 gig memory card! The river was almost completely transparent, with amazing teals and blues and Cochrane Lake is equally stunning.
Cesar dropped us at a beach with a camping area and we started the hike back, which took a total of six hours. The first part has a lot of climbs and descents and then you reach a flat area with a beautiful view of the entire sector. We saw a lot of other huemul traces, but no movements or animals, so we were really glad to have had such good luck early on!
When we got back to the cabin, Don Wilson had left us firewood, so Andy played mountain man and I started dinner. We opened a few and headed out to the deck to enjoy our meal and watch the fish rise in the river. We were planning to go on to San Lorenzo from there so we followed him in our own Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating. The morning was a little drizzly, but our spirits were intact, so as long as Jimmy was in, we were ready to walk; sun, rain or wind.
The road toward Mount San Lorenzo was beautiful, full forests, rivers and lakes and before you knew it, we had crossed the two final bridges, left the cars behind and hiked the three km to the Calluqueo lagoon at the base of the glacier. We crossed in a small motorboat, donned our safety equipment crampons, ice ax and helmet and started our climb up the ice. We walked more than 3 hours on the ice and, as if to applaud our efforts, the drizzle began to fade and the sun peeked out from the clouds, producing an incredible rainbow that lit up the glacier with hundreds of different shades of blue transparent ice.
Mount San Lorenzo even made a brief appearance, but never completely showed its summit.
We had lunch in the middle of the ice and then started the return journey. We would never have found the ranch had Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating not been for Jimmy! The landscape and Radio patagonia coyhaique online dating campsites were fabulous, with hot showers and a quincho we could use for cooking.
Luis and Lucy, our hosts, joined us for a while after dinner and told us a lot of stories about the farm and about mountaineering in the sector. The first summit had been made in by a team of three: Alberto De Agostini, who was 60 years old at the time. While we were drinking mate, Don Luis came over to give us some instructions for the trekking we would do on the hike up to the Refugio de Agostini that he had hand built.
This refuge had been the base camp for hundreds of climbers who had attempted to climb this elusive mountain, the second highest in the Patagonia m. Well, just before the summer begins, the winds appear with tremendous force and the climate becomes unstable; thus, serious mountaineers have to either get really lucky or plan their climbs in early spring or late fall, when the climate calms down a bit.
It was a 5-hour hike up to the refuge, following the course of the San Lorenzo stream and a series of dried riverbeds and moraine.